There are three rubber O-ring seals that need to be removed and swapped over to the other section before reassembly, and these needed some coaxing to remove from the plastic channel they were seated in. I used a small jewelers screwdriver to gently pry the seal up and out. Once the block was reassembled I prepared the motherboard for installation. In the case of AMD sockets the Apogee utilizes the stock backing plate, so I had to pull the motherboard in order to reinstall mine. I also had to move my memory to the other two DIMM slots because the outlet fitting was contacting them, preventing the block from seating. When used in a vertical orientation Swiftech strongly recommends the block be placed so that the outlet pipe is higher than the inlet. This is to prevent air from getting trapped inside the block.
Swiftech suggests to use a deep well 9/16th socket to install the fittings in the radiator however a wrench works just as well. They don't specify how tight to make this connection however be very careful not to overtighten as the fittings are just plastic, it would be very easy to crack them or strip out the threads. The fans and rear half of the radbox are mounted to the side of the radiator using the provided screws. There are two different lengths and Swiftech points out to make sure to use the correct one so as not to tighten the screws into the coolant fins, possibly damaging them or causing the radiator to leak. The other half of the radbox is attached to the rear of the case. Swiftech has again provided extra long screws that pass through the exhaust fan and case, as well as the spacers to set the radiator out for better airflow.
Once everything is hooked up the Apogee block should be dismounted during the filling in order to bleed the system of air. By making the block the lowest point in the loop it will ensure coolant drains into the pump at startup and during operation. An appropriate amount of distilled water is needed to add to the 2oz of coolant provided, then added as needed after bleeding the system. You should also check for possible leaks during this time. Since the pump is run from the +12v power of the system, you will need a way to "jump-start" the power supply without starting the rest of the computer. The easiest way to do this is disconnect the main ATX connector from the motherboard and jumper the green and black pins together. Once bled, the block can then be reattached to the CPU socket and the system powered on. One item I did note after completing the installation, is that one of my video card DVI ports is rendered unusable by the radiator and fan being in the way. If you connect a cable directly to the DVI port without the use of an adapter you will probably have enough room, I would just suggest making sure to install the fan guard grill to prevent it from touching the fan blades.
Ahead to testing and conclusion.
